Plaster and Existing Walls
My walls are original plaster and I need to patch a hole. Do I use drywall or try to match the plaster?
For small holes (under about 6 inches), you can often get a better result matching the plaster with setting-type compound like Durabond 45 or 90. Apply in multiple thin coats, letting each coat set before adding the next. The setting compound is harder when cured and blends better with the surrounding plaster surface than standard pre-mixed compound, which stays slightly softer.
For larger holes, cutting back to studs and installing a drywall patch is usually more practical. The junction between the drywall patch and the surrounding plaster will need careful feathering, and you may need to build up the drywall surface slightly with compound to match the plaster thickness.
My plaster wall has dozens of hairline cracks. Do I need to replace it?
Not necessarily. Hairline cracks in plaster are normal in Michigan homes due to the seasonal movement from freeze-thaw cycling. If the plaster is still bonded to the lath (tap it and listen for hollow sounds; a hollow thud means it's delaminated), you can fill hairline cracks with a setting compound or plaster primer and skim coat the surface. This is faster and cheaper than full replacement when the underlying plaster is structurally sound.
Can I skim coat over old plaster to get a smooth, fresh surface?
Yes, and it's often the best approach for older Detroit homes where the plaster has minor surface damage across a large area. Sand the surface lightly to dull the sheen, apply a bonding primer, and skim coat with all-purpose compound thinned to a creamy consistency. Two thin coats, sanded between them, gives a surface that paints cleanly. The Bob Vila guide on skim coating has a good overview of the technique if you haven't done it before.
Basement Finishing
Do I need a vapor barrier in my Detroit basement if I use moisture-resistant drywall?
Yes. Moisture-resistant drywall is designed for occasional humidity exposure, not for installation against a masonry wall that's constantly transmitting vapor from the surrounding soil. Without a vapor barrier, the wall cavity behind your drywall stays damp enough for mold to establish, typically within two to four years in a Michigan basement. Use 6-mil polyethylene sheeting against the block wall, sealed at seams and edges, before you build the stud wall in front of it.
Is there any situation where I don't need a vapor barrier in a Detroit basement?
If the block wall has been professionally waterproofed on the exterior and there's no evidence of moisture intrusion over multiple wet seasons, some contractors will skip the interior vapor barrier and rely on a dehumidifier to manage humidity. This is a judgment call that depends on the specific basement. If you have any doubt, install the vapor barrier. The cost is minimal and the consequences of skipping it can be significant.
My basement floor is original concrete with no vapor barrier. Can I put flooring down directly?
Not without addressing the moisture. Old concrete slabs in Detroit homes have no vapor barrier under them, and moisture wicks up through the slab continuously. Putting hardwood or laminate directly on the slab will damage the flooring within a few years. Use either a dimple mat (like DRIcore) that creates an air gap above the slab, or a continuous vapor barrier topped with a floating floor system. Engineered wood or LVP flooring with the right underlayment is generally more tolerant of slight moisture than solid hardwood.
Cracking and Seasonal Issues
I have diagonal cracks at the corners of my doors every spring. I fill them and they come back. What's happening?
Freeze-thaw cracking. The seasonal movement of your home's foundation and framing concentrates stress at the corners of door and window openings, and the drywall cracks along the diagonal. Simply filling with compound will not hold because the compound doesn't flex with movement.
The lasting repair involves widening the crack slightly with a utility knife, embedding mesh tape with compound, and feathering out a few inches on each side. The mesh tape bridges the crack and provides enough structural integrity to survive minor movement. For cracks that keep reopening even with tape, try replacing the last coat of compound with paintable flexible caulk. It stays slightly flexible after curing and can accommodate the small seasonal movement without cracking.
What causes screw pops and why do they seem to happen more in spring?
Wood framing absorbs moisture in winter and dries out in spring. As it dries, it shrinks slightly, pulling away from the drywall screws. The screws, which were set flush or slightly below the surface, end up proud of the wall surface as the wood recedes. Michigan's pronounced seasonal humidity cycle makes this more noticeable here than in drier climates.
Fix individual pops by driving the popped screw slightly below the surface, adding a new screw two inches above and below it to re-secure the panel, filling with compound, and touching up the paint. If you have widespread pops across a ceiling, the framing may have been wet when the drywall was installed. That typically requires a full rescrewing and skim coat to address comprehensively.
Permits and Local Requirements
Do I need a permit to finish my Detroit basement?
Yes, for new finished basement construction in Detroit. The city's Building, Safety Engineering, and Environmental Department (BSEED) issues permits for this work. You can check current requirements at detroitmi.gov. Permit requirements cover electrical, plumbing, and HVAC additions as well as the structural work. Doing the work without a permit can create problems when selling the house.
Repair work on existing finished walls generally does not require a permit. The permit threshold is typically new construction or substantial alteration of existing finished space.
Are there specific drywall requirements for attached garages in Michigan?
Yes. Michigan code requires Type X fire-rated 5/8-inch drywall on the wall between an attached garage and the living space, and on the ceiling of the garage if there's living space above. This is standard residential code that applies statewide. If you're renovating a garage-to-living-space connection in an older Detroit home, check that the existing drywall meets this requirement before closing it back up.