Why Metal Studs Behave Differently
Wood studs are rigid. Drive a screw and the stud doesn't move. Metal studs are hollow channels, and they flex. When you press a drywall panel against a metal stud and try to drive a screw, the stud can deflect away from you, spin slightly in the track, or fold at the screw point if you're going too fast.
This isn't a dealbreaker. It's just something to account for. Having a helper makes it easier. If you're working alone, clamp the stud to the track with a C-clamp or locking pliers while you drive the first screw, then it'll stay put.
The other behavioral difference is that metal studs are thinner than wood, so there's less margin for error on screw placement. If you're more than a quarter inch off center of the stud flange, your screw may not catch anything useful. Snap chalk lines on the drywall face to mark the stud centers before you start hanging.
Screw Type Is Not Optional
This is where my contractor friend was right. Wood drywall screws are coarse-thread. Metal stud drywall screws are fine-thread. The difference matters because coarse threads will strip out of thin metal rather than biting into it. Fine-thread screws are designed to tap their own way through sheet metal and hold.
Look for screws labeled "Type S" (self-drilling, for metal up to 0.033 inches thick) or "Type S-12" (for heavier gauge metal). Standard residential metal stud framing is usually 25-gauge (light) or 20-gauge (heavier), and Type S screws handle both. The length you need depends on your drywall thickness: for 1/2-inch drywall, use 1-inch screws. For 5/8-inch, use 1-1/4-inch.
I bought a box of the wrong screws on my first trip to the hardware store because I grabbed the same ones I always use. Returned them, got the Type S, and the installation went fine after that. Worth checking the box before you leave the store.
Cutting Metal Studs
If you need to cut metal studs to length or notch around obstructions, do not use a circular saw. It'll work but it throws metal shards everywhere and is louder than it needs to be. The better options are aviation snips (tin snips) or an oscillating multi-tool with a metal-cutting blade.
For cutting studs to length with snips: cut both flanges, then bend and snap the web. Takes about 30 seconds once you get the feel for it. For notching around plumbing or electrical boxes, an oscillating tool is faster and more precise.
The tracks (the horizontal pieces at floor and ceiling) cut the same way. Score both flanges, snap.
Panel Positioning and Fastener Spacing
Hang drywall the same way you would on wood: panels vertical on walls, horizontal on ceilings if you have help. The spacing rules for fasteners are a little different on metal framing per the Gypsum Association's standard guidelines.
For walls: screws every 16 inches in the field, 12 inches at the edges and ends. For ceilings: 12 inches throughout. If you're in a high-wind area or the ceiling span is long, 8-inch spacing on ceilings is more conservative and worth doing.
The screw dimple depth matters just as much as on wood. You want the screw head set just below the drywall surface without tearing the paper. Metal studs give you a little less forgiveness here because the hollow channel beneath can allow the screw to push through the drywall face if you're driving too aggressively. Set your driver clutch lower than you think you need and test on a scrap piece first.
Corners and Inside Edges
Outside corners work the same as wood framing. Cut the panels, install corner bead over the outside corner, coat and finish. The corner bead flanges sit on the drywall surface and you nail or crimp them the same way. If you're using crimped (clinch-on) corner bead, make sure the flanges are fully seated before crimping or you'll get gaps in the finishing coat.
Inside corners: same technique as wood. Tape and mud the inside corner. Nothing special here.
Where you may run into trouble is if your metal framing has slight waves or bows. Metal studs aren't as rigid as lumber and can have small deflections between fastening points. Run a long straightedge along the finished wall before you start finishing and identify any low spots. They're usually minor and can be filled with mud during taping, but it's better to know before you start than to discover them during sanding.
Finishing Is Identical to Wood
Once the panels are hung, finishing on metal-framed drywall is exactly the same as wood. Tape the joints, coat with compound, sand, prime, paint. There's no difference in how you treat the wall surface based on what's behind it.
The only situation where you might notice a difference is if the metal framing has any movement, which can happen in non-load-bearing partition walls. If there's flex in the structure, you may see cracks at joints over time. This is a framing issue, not a finishing issue, and it's solved by ensuring the tracks are properly anchored at floor and ceiling before you hang anything.
For a reference on allowable deflection in metal framing, the Steel Framing Industry Association publishes installation guides at sfia.net that cover both structural and non-structural applications. Most residential partition walls are non-structural and have more flexibility in how they're installed, but it's worth understanding the limits.